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HISTORY
Even though autonomous, Hamrun is not actually among the older towns and villages which can boast of having a long historical past. It was constituted as a parish in the last quarter of the 19th century (1881). This does not mean that the area itself on which it stands has no connection with the past before that.
We can even go back to prehistoric times, to the Pleistocene era of which fossil shells, elephant and deer fossilized bones and teeth were unearthed in the 1940s when air raid shelters were being dug.
From Punic times, a tomb was found on the road to Qormi in 1930 containing human remains and a larger one in 1960 while foundations were being prepared for a house near Gwardamangia (then part of Hamrun). This tomb had the remains of eighteen bodies and also some rich artifacts. Again, from the Roman era, another tomb, this time with five skeletons and some pottery was discovered in 1955 by workers digging a drainage ditch.
Historical finds from Byzantine, Arab and early medieval times are few and far between in Malta and Gozo and up to this day nothing from those times was discovered in the Hamrun area.
More prolific are buildings of the Knights of St.John and Hamrun still has a good share of these. In a contract of 1627 by Notary Ambrogio Sciberras, Giovanni Barbieri leaves in his will, a block of houses at the eastern end of Hamrun called Blata l-Bajda, to the Confraternity of St.Paul of Valletta. Sadly these houses were demolished in the early 1960s to make way for a traffic project, the Bishops Curia being compensated by land further in where it built a block of low income houses!
The Knights had their Powder Magazines further west close to the main road. Even though the space is now occupied by private dwellings built at the turn of the 20th century, an access lane on the location still bears the name of Sqaq il-Kubrit which is the Maltese word for Sulphur one of the ingredients of gunpowder. While the Powder Magazines were still standing but unoccupied, they were frequented by Sicilian and Maltese contraband dealers who always had knives to deal with problems that arose. From this we get the nickname tas-Sikkina (knife wielders) for the people of Hamrun and especially soccer club fans! More about tas-sikkina legend in the article by J.Martinelli.
About a hundred meters west of this area, the Bailiff of the Order De Blacas D Aups built a palace facing the main road, complete with extensive botanical gardens and fountains where the institute of the Little Sisters of the Poor now stands and included the space where we now have St.Pauls square. A part of the old palace itself still stands facing St Joseph High Road the main Hamrun thoroughfare. It was annexed to the new building and preserved.
We can even go back to prehistoric times, to the Pleistocene era of which fossil shells, elephant and deer fossilized bones and teeth were unearthed in the 1940s when air raid shelters were being dug.
From Punic times, a tomb was found on the road to Qormi in 1930 containing human remains and a larger one in 1960 while foundations were being prepared for a house near Gwardamangia (then part of Hamrun). This tomb had the remains of eighteen bodies and also some rich artifacts. Again, from the Roman era, another tomb, this time with five skeletons and some pottery was discovered in 1955 by workers digging a drainage ditch.
Historical finds from Byzantine, Arab and early medieval times are few and far between in Malta and Gozo and up to this day nothing from those times was discovered in the Hamrun area.
More prolific are buildings of the Knights of St.John and Hamrun still has a good share of these. In a contract of 1627 by Notary Ambrogio Sciberras, Giovanni Barbieri leaves in his will, a block of houses at the eastern end of Hamrun called Blata l-Bajda, to the Confraternity of St.Paul of Valletta. Sadly these houses were demolished in the early 1960s to make way for a traffic project, the Bishops Curia being compensated by land further in where it built a block of low income houses!
The Knights had their Powder Magazines further west close to the main road. Even though the space is now occupied by private dwellings built at the turn of the 20th century, an access lane on the location still bears the name of Sqaq il-Kubrit which is the Maltese word for Sulphur one of the ingredients of gunpowder. While the Powder Magazines were still standing but unoccupied, they were frequented by Sicilian and Maltese contraband dealers who always had knives to deal with problems that arose. From this we get the nickname tas-Sikkina (knife wielders) for the people of Hamrun and especially soccer club fans! More about tas-sikkina legend in the article by J.Martinelli.
About a hundred meters west of this area, the Bailiff of the Order De Blacas D Aups built a palace facing the main road, complete with extensive botanical gardens and fountains where the institute of the Little Sisters of the Poor now stands and included the space where we now have St.Pauls square. A part of the old palace itself still stands facing St Joseph High Road the main Hamrun thoroughfare. It was annexed to the new building and preserved.
Part of 'Blacas' palace on main road
Old doorway to preserved annex
Around 1645 a small church was built about 500yds further west of this palace. Adjacent to it a one level palace was raised. This had an imposing doorway and two windows on each side. The last tenants who occupied it between 1867 and 1902 were the Count George Sant-Fournier and his wife Paolina. This palace is no more and its place is taken by very cheap low income housing built at the beginning of the twentieth century. The church of Our Lady of Porto Salvo, still stands. Please see section about Other Churches.
On Atocia hill prominently overlooking Floriana and Marsa, is a palace from the time of the Knights. It is now partly divided into private residences but still has an imposing entry hall and a large stone balcony of which today only the base exists. In 1919 it was acquired by the Zahra family from Baron C.Zammit Gauci. Its facade still carries the scars from being hit by cannon balls during the French blockade of Valletta. Being built more than 400 years ago, this edifice could be said to be the oldest standing building in Hamrun, but sad to say that nowadays it is in such a sorry state that the local council is pleading with the government to close up the entrances because of safety issues. Close by on the hill stands Atocia church and this too had its part to play in the French blockade. More about this church in Other Churches.
Another palace, from the time of Grandmaster De Rohan used to exist on the west side of the same hill where we now have St.Cajetan street behind the Parish Church. This palace which used to be called ta Brunu, had four steps in front of its main entrance. Around the time of WWII, it used to house a marble factory, then after being hit by bombs was later demolished to be replaced by private homes. Some of these can still boast of a few coats of arms of De Rohan, all that remains of this palace, in their backyards. At the other end of St.Cajetan street, nestled between two houses, stands a water tower. This is part of what used to be Grandmaster Wignacourt’Äôs aqueduct built during his tenure to carry fresh water to Valletta from sources around Rabat. Before this, water used to be carted down to the city. In Santa Venera which used to be Hamrun territory until 1912, the aqueduct arches still stand to one side of the main road. In a backyard further down from the tower, stands a stele to commemorate the extension and betterment of this aqueduct by another Grandmaster, De Rohan. The translation of the inscription on this stele says: Emmanuel De Rohan made this aqueduct stronger for the collection of water, with a newer one better built by the kind hearted Prince for the health of his people in the year 1780.
Top Left is the Water Tower
Bottom Left is the steele.
Top Left is the Water Tower
Bottom Left is the steele.
By the late 1700s, in front of Bailiff Blacas palace across the road from St.Paul square, there existed a popular tavern belonging to Gamri (John Mary) Zammit nicknamed Il-Hamrun. This leads us to the most probable conjecture that the town took its name from the family nickname which by the way was still in existence up to the beginning of the 20th century. At this time there were other names for other areas of territory which would one day form the town of Hamrun. The part bordering Birkirkara was known as St.Joseph because of a small St.Joseph church that existed there, while the hill was known as Atocia or Tas-Samra because of the dark complexion of the Madonna on the icon in the church there. Furthermore there was the part called Ta' Braxia which was down by Pieta, but as is obvious, the name Hamrun prevailed, not after some disagreements among the villagers.
In the last years of the 16th century, just before the knights of the French langue were starting to plot to overthrow the Order and open Malta for Napoleon, Hamrun was already recognized as the village of St.Joseph. In the 1778 map on the left which already had French influence, we find a place called S.Joseph on the Top Right, with a semblance of the end of Wignacourt's aqueduct near the wording.
Malta went through an important part of its history in 1798 when the French langue of the Order of the Knights of St.John opened the doors for Napoleon Bonaparte to usurp the islands. The corrupt knights capitulated and the French occupied Malta. It was only when Napoleon started ransacking our churches to pay his troops that the Maltese rose up and blockaded the French in Valletta a year later. And here, Atocia hill with its little church played an important part keeping the French at bay. Strategic trenches were dug facing Floriana and the city, part of the main effort in the attacks on the enemy trying to exit the capital. The church roof too served as a prominent watch tower and vantage point for sharp shooters. Moreover the rubble walls of fields in the area were dismantled and the rocks spread over the roads to slow down French troops and movement of cannon. When the British were invited to help the Maltese get rid of the French, British Marines were stationed at these trenches. At the heat of the battle, a crucifix from Atocia church was stuck atop a black flag to show the French that this was a fight till the end.
The Maltese leaders including the future Maltese Bishop Caruana, meanwhile were meeting in their headquarters at Casa Leoni, a palace built by a knight and which still stands in Sta.Venera which was once Hamrun territory. From this time too, there is also record of a fairly important skirmish on the main road of Hamrun. We find a French detachment on its way to relieve compatriots at Mdina, being ambushed and routed by the Maltese who surprised them from behind the rubble walls.
In the 1800s, under British rule, the area started to develop peacefully though sporadically and only hindered by frequent plague epidemics. In 1813 the Governor Commander in chief Sir Thomas Maitland arrived in Malta. He had to face a Plague epidemic which started on the 21st of May 1813 and petered out only around September of 1814. Cholera made other visits in the years: 1837, 1848, 1850, 1854, 1856 and 1865, killing most of the victims tainted. Until the early 1960s, at the eastern extremity of Hamrun in an area called Blata l-Bajda, there used to be a cemetery for victims of the plague. This gave way to a modern chapel and a centre which will be discussed in detail further on in the section Other Churches.
The Maltese leaders including the future Maltese Bishop Caruana, meanwhile were meeting in their headquarters at Casa Leoni, a palace built by a knight and which still stands in Sta.Venera which was once Hamrun territory. From this time too, there is also record of a fairly important skirmish on the main road of Hamrun. We find a French detachment on its way to relieve compatriots at Mdina, being ambushed and routed by the Maltese who surprised them from behind the rubble walls.
In the 1800s, under British rule, the area started to develop peacefully though sporadically and only hindered by frequent plague epidemics. In 1813 the Governor Commander in chief Sir Thomas Maitland arrived in Malta. He had to face a Plague epidemic which started on the 21st of May 1813 and petered out only around September of 1814. Cholera made other visits in the years: 1837, 1848, 1850, 1854, 1856 and 1865, killing most of the victims tainted. Until the early 1960s, at the eastern extremity of Hamrun in an area called Blata l-Bajda, there used to be a cemetery for victims of the plague. This gave way to a modern chapel and a centre which will be discussed in detail further on in the section Other Churches.
From the early years of British rule very close to this cemetery, we find a stone obelisk at Blata l-Bajda. It was erected as a monument to Captain Sir Robert Spencer of HMS Madagascar who died at the end of November 1831 whilst his ship was in quarantine. He was the second son of Earl Spencer and a cousin of Lieutenant Governor Ponsonby. A few days later his body was carried ashore by barge. The funeral was attended by a great number of prominent people including Maltese.
'Ta' Braxia' in 1901 when Hamrun was in its infancy
In a book describing Maltese churches and their contents published by Giuseppe Calleja a teacher of drawing at the Lyceum in 1881, the author writes about a 'New' church on St Joseph's road. This happens to be the same year that St.Cajetan's became a Parish Church and was open only for a few years. Please see the actual scans of the pertinent pages below.
Click follow this link to see more detail about: St.Cajetan Parish Church.
From the papers of those days we have these comments:
Lo Maschetore 22nd Nov 1873:
The village of San Giuseppe, slowly but surely, is expanding. The new church is going ahead at a good pace with the help of many contributors. A small but trim cafe with the name of Don Carlos has opened and has all the amenities needed. A club has just been formed with the name of San Giuseppe. The following committe is already in place: President- Dr Ruggiero Tabone; Secretary- the public notary (sensal) Giuseppe Portanier; Treasurer- Mr F Marguerat; and two other members. The number of registered members is already about 40. Now it is the government whose turn is to act. The population of Casale San Giuseppe has already reached 5000. They are petitioning the government to repair the main roads that link the village to other centres. There is need of gas lights. These are necessary because people pass through Via San Giuseppe during the night. About this village we have more in future.
Lo Maschetore 13th Dec 1873:
On Saturday the 6th of this month, the opening of the club Casino San Giuseppe took place. This club took the name of the village with decor and without any fuss. The president Dr Ruggiero Carbone gave a good speech and another interesting one was given by the Secretary Guze Portanier. Both speeches were loudly applauded by all the membership.
We wish long life to this young Club.
(Actually this club was just a Social Club which took care of the well being of the area, like petitioning for road repairs and more lighting. It became a Band club in 1889.)
Corriere Mercantile Maltese 27th October 1873:
The four gas lights that are in front of Porte des Bombes are a huge asset. Now we need to add some lighting within the populated suburb of Casale San Giuseppe which is the most important artery in the island.
Chiese e Cappelle di Malta e Gozo 1880
In his book of this name, Achille Ferris refers to the church of Porto Salvo, more commonly known as San Tunnuzzu, as the nearest church to the San Giuseppe club, it being just three doors to the west.
A 1920's aerial view of Hamrun with St.Cajetan's church in the top middle and Porte des Bombes bottom middle right. Near this gate on the right, one can just make the Railway line crossing Princess Melita Road.
The growth of Hamrun during the late nineteenth through the twentieth century is again studied through the progress of the transportation system over the years. Being on the main artery as regards access from Valletta, Hamrun gained from the introduction of a railway system all be it a simple line. On the 12th June 1879, the Malta Railway Company Limited was formed. The single meter-gauge track emerged from the Valletta tunnel near Portes des Bombes. Besides the Valletta station, there were another four, namely that of Hamrun, B’ÄôKara, Attard and Notabile, and four request halts two of which were at each end of Hamrun. A stone-arched bridge crossed over Princess Melita Road. In Hamrun the train passed near the Ta Braxia Cemetery, crossed the place known as the Mile End and entered the Hamrun Station, later known as the Central Railway Station. This housed the engine sheds, the workshops and stores for coal. It was the only station throughout the line that possessed a semaphore signal. Leaving Hamrun station, the train ran over an embankment and then came to a flagmans hut at a level crossing over Villambrosa before heading for Birkirkara, one and a half miles away, and then on through the other stations to Rabat Notabile station terminus. The station building of Hamrun is a one level building with a sun-canopy extending on to the platform and rectangular doors and windows with the name of the station painted in black on the main entrance door. There is still a huge flower pot typical of the station decor. A small two level entrance lobby with offices on the first floor used to exist up to the 1960s when it was demolished to make way for traffic. At around this time a part of the railway embankment leading to the church of St.Francis was still standing; this of course became a road with residential buildings on each side soon afterwards. The Malta Railway Company was taken over by the government after seven years, under the name of The Malta Railway. It was always a passenger train and never operated freight service. It was closed down definitely on the 3lst March 1931 after serving the Maltese people for nearly 50 years.
The old pictures of the station lobby and embankment are from 1960. The station platform, ticket rooms and part of the workshops are still standing and used by the Hamrun Scout group together with one of the original planters.
The old pictures of the station lobby and embankment are from 1960. The station platform, ticket rooms and part of the workshops are still standing and used by the Hamrun Scout group together with one of the original planters.
Top Left: Stationmaster office & lobby
Top Middle: Embankment
Top Right: Part of the workshops
Far Left: Train station
Left: Original planter
Nowadays the station itself still exists and is used by a local scout group. The repair shop, Foundry, and Garages are now occupied by the main dairy products company in Malta (see picture further down). At the same time the railway was at its peak, the British were enhancing their defenses around the Grand Harbour, building up a better system and facilities for their ships in the form of a new dockyard. This called for a lot of participation of local workers and since the cities around the harbour were getting overcrowded and expensive to live in, the workers sought to build their homes close by. Hamrun was in an excellent position and now easy to reach by rail. This is the reason why at this time it saw such a surge in population numbers.
Above Left: Repair shop and Garages Hamrun; Above Right: Train in Mtarfa staition (the furthest).
The Malta Tramways were set up by the British corporation Macartney, McElroy & Co. Ltd. following a contract between its representatives and the Malta Government signed on July 2nd, 1903. Construction of the lines began in 1904, with the main terminus being built in Porta Reale, Valletta, so that lines would run over Floriana and Hamrun, at which point they would diverge to different urban centres, including the Three Cities of the Cottonera and Zebbug, passing through Qormi.
The tram in Hamrun
Left, Main road
Right, Blata l-Bajda
An extension to cover Birkirkara was later added to the original schedule. The electric tramway service was inaugurated by Governor General Sir Mansfield Clarke on February 23rd, 1905. The individual trams were double decker and mostly with no roof on the upper level with 18 seats, there was also no protection against the elements on the main level which could take 20 seated and some standing passengers. They had a platform at the back where there was access to the top. With a slow speed of 10mph, they used to clang along St.Joseph High road and stop at St.Paul square and Fleur-De-Lys. In July 1908 a new company, Malta Tramways Limited, was set up to take over the Malta operations. After 24 years of service the company was becoming less and less viable to run, so, being declared insolvent, the tram company closed down on December 15th, 1929.
Malta, with its strategic position in the middle of the Mediterranean, gave the British an advantage through the two world wars but involved the Maltese in the process. The first world war saw troops encamped in Hamrun territory near Porte des Bombes and down to Pieta around 1915. In the same area there is a commemorative 3 meter stele in a public garden which bears the inscription: Jubilee Garden planted to commemorate the silver jubilee of His Majesty King George V 1910 - 1935.
Between the two world wars, there developed in Malta, a new form of transport, and this was the reason of the demise of the tramways. Again, this was a more versatile mode of travel this time not confined to tracks. The Maltese easily took to building small buses over imported truck chassis and were still doing this up to the 1960s. At first the running of these was disorganized and buses were owned by individuals who vied with each other for fares, but the pity about all this was that beauty had to make way for progress. A beautiful boulevard of a main road in Hamrun between St.Paul square and Blata l-Bajda, had its trees cut down for road widening!
Soon, after government intervention, a company was formed and after a while specific route buses had a specific colour according to destination.
Soon, after government intervention, a company was formed and after a while specific route buses had a specific colour according to destination.
Hamrun had the red Birkirkara buses and the blue Rabat buses coming right through the main road, while other colourful routes veered off at Blata l-Bajda to other destinations to the south of the island all stopping at frequent request and obligatory stops. In 1973 the colour scheme was cut down to three, in 1975 all became light green until 1995 when the livery was changed to yellow with an orange band. Nowadays, many of the buses built in the 1960s are still running though now they are slowly being phased out by brand new ones built in the U.K.
Because of the multiplying number of cars and buses on Maltese roads, especially after the development of the pneumatic tyre, the roads which were all dirt roads up to the 1920s, started to be asphalted. In Hamrun, in the 1930s an experiment was done with a stretch of the main road on the west part of town that is on a slight incline going into what is now Santa Venera. A new kind of lava asphalt was laid and this smooth surface lasted well into the 1960s. A huge traffic project was undertaken just outside Porte des Bombes with the Princess Melita Road underpass in the 1950s.
While on the subject of transport, one might also mention that up to the early '60's, horse drawn hearses were still in use and used to pass through the main Hamrun thoroghfare from the western towns to the Addolorata Cemetery in Rahal Gdid. One might still be able to see the scene on the left in the near future since horse drawn hearses are making a comeback.
Another more complex flyover at Blata l-Bajda was built around 1965 where Spencer Monument had to be moved Eastward about 200 feet. Before, in both locations traffic was controlled by a police officer from a tiny traffic island with an umbrella roof in the middle of the busy intersection. The smooth flow of traffic nowadays is a necessity with the ever increasing number of vehicles on these roads. In the last decade of the 20th century traffic lights were installed in three spots in Hamrun and these make for better control and flow of vehicles and safety of pedestrians. Blata l-Bajda has a set, another is at St.Paul square, while a set of flashing and beeping lights were installed with a crosswalk in front of the St.Cajetan Parish church.
When Sir Temi Zammit found that raw goats' milk was the source of Brucellosis or Undulant Fever early in the 20th century, the government decided to install a facility for the Pasteurization of milk. What better central place already in government hands could exist than the old disused Hamrun railway station? On the 11th May 1938 the Milk Marketing Undertaking was inaugurated. At first it started to treat up to 800 gallons of milk a day, a number which in the 1970s was already up to 12000 gallons daily. Milk is collected at depots all around Malta and Gozo, tested and trucked to the Hamrun centre.
In 1986 the government transferred the responsibilities of the M.M.U. to a private Malta Dairy Products which soon introduced its brand name Benna on its products. Both the M.M.U. and the M.D.P. produced thousands of gallons of free milk for schoolchildren. Up until 1988 milk was distributed in returnable glass bottles which were phased out by 1997, nowadays all milk being sold in cartons. Apart from milk and cream, the facility also produces ricotta, hard cheeses, local gbejniet, and all kinds of yoghurt.
Hamrun was the cradle of the first Maltese Brewery.
In 1919 the Farrugia Flourmills in Hamrun were burnt down in the 'Sette Giuigno' riots and the owners decided to diversify their business by producing industrial gases, notably carbon dioxide; then in 1926 by venturing into brewing as Farsons Ltd. L.Farrugia & Sons (Farsons) later would amalgamate with Simonds and Cisk breweries to form Simonds Farsons Cisk in 1929. They built their first brewery in the West end of Hamrun and launched their first beer, Farsons Pale Ale, on April 19th 1928 during the traditional feast of St. George in neighbouring Qormi. This was the first beer ever brewed in Malta. The company continued to operate uninterruptedly in the Hamrun brewery until 1942 when part of the brewery was destroyed during the Malta blitz of World War II. However, with typical determination, the brewery was up and running again within a year. The brewery building still stands and the street is still called Farsons street. See Photo on Right.... Nowadays, Simonds Farsons Cisk is a leader in industry and enterprise. It also produces a wide portfolio of carbonated and non-carbonated beverages.
In 1919 the Farrugia Flourmills in Hamrun were burnt down in the 'Sette Giuigno' riots and the owners decided to diversify their business by producing industrial gases, notably carbon dioxide; then in 1926 by venturing into brewing as Farsons Ltd. L.Farrugia & Sons (Farsons) later would amalgamate with Simonds and Cisk breweries to form Simonds Farsons Cisk in 1929. They built their first brewery in the West end of Hamrun and launched their first beer, Farsons Pale Ale, on April 19th 1928 during the traditional feast of St. George in neighbouring Qormi. This was the first beer ever brewed in Malta. The company continued to operate uninterruptedly in the Hamrun brewery until 1942 when part of the brewery was destroyed during the Malta blitz of World War II. However, with typical determination, the brewery was up and running again within a year. The brewery building still stands and the street is still called Farsons street. See Photo on Right.... Nowadays, Simonds Farsons Cisk is a leader in industry and enterprise. It also produces a wide portfolio of carbonated and non-carbonated beverages.
As regards other historical industries, Hamrun can boast of being the centre for the manufacture of cane objects. The craft was handed down from father to sons since the late 1800's and a lone worker still makes baskets, fruit containers, fish traps and even small pieces of furniture in his shop close to Blata l-Bajda. On my last visit in May 2010, this chap was showing me all his handiwork but was sorry no one wants to learn this trade because it is very rough on one's hands, fingers and back. If no one picks it up, this craft will go by the wayside like many others. At least my friend still participates is craft shows and the like.
Malta took in the wounded of the Mediterranean area during the First Great War. Hamrun played part in this since the British built a small but adequate hospital for eye cases here.
From the book 'Malta, the nurse of the Mediterranean' by Rev.A.G. Mackinnon, M.A. Chaplain-Major Senior Presbyterian Chaplain, Malta, we have his comments as he is exiting Floriana visiting the wounded all over the island: Two miles farter out the hot dusty car track is Hamrun Hospital, an inspection of which is well worth the annoyance of getting there. . . Hamrun is small, but a model. Of course, it is quite new, and, therefore, might be expected to have all the latest improvements. It exhales an atmosphere of up-to-dateness. Here all eye cases are being sent. . .
Again, through Hamrun passes a main artery for traffic to the Western part of Malta and to the areas where the British had their facilities. So through this time, one could glimpse the odd military vehicle or equipment passing through. The picture on the left was taken at that time and shows a cannon being pulled by a steam roller kind of tractor in the direction of Birkirkara and beyond.
From the book 'Malta, the nurse of the Mediterranean' by Rev.A.G. Mackinnon, M.A. Chaplain-Major Senior Presbyterian Chaplain, Malta, we have his comments as he is exiting Floriana visiting the wounded all over the island: Two miles farter out the hot dusty car track is Hamrun Hospital, an inspection of which is well worth the annoyance of getting there. . . Hamrun is small, but a model. Of course, it is quite new, and, therefore, might be expected to have all the latest improvements. It exhales an atmosphere of up-to-dateness. Here all eye cases are being sent. . .
Again, through Hamrun passes a main artery for traffic to the Western part of Malta and to the areas where the British had their facilities. So through this time, one could glimpse the odd military vehicle or equipment passing through. The picture on the left was taken at that time and shows a cannon being pulled by a steam roller kind of tractor in the direction of Birkirkara and beyond.
While there was not too much upheaval in our town for the duration of the First World War, a couple of stray bombs did fall during WWII demolishing houses in Hamrun. Anticipating the conflagration many started digging air-raid shelters in the limestone underneath their properties, and even the government of the time ordered a good many of these to be excavated for the general public. Since lately the government has declared air-raid shelters to be heritage sites and so not to be disturbed or altered. With this state of affairs, a family in Hamrun had to go to court because of the need to dig a cellar under their premises and coming across one of these! The part that Hamrun played in WWII was more like that of a host to a great number of refugees fleeing the most heaily bombed part of the world, that is the Grand Harbour area. This artificial inflation of local numbers does not show on any documents because during the war years no records were kept of movement of population. Some of these people stayed and others left after they had rebuilt their homes in Valletta and the three cities.
A soccer pitch around Blata l-Bajda exists just one mile away from from the main gate of the city of Valletta. This used to be called the Mile End ground and even before WWII served as a recreation spot for British services and Maltese to play soccer in. By and by the local Hamrun Spartans soccer club acquired it and it is now their training pitch and includes a small restaurant. During the 1980s its name was changed to Victor Tedesco pitch in honour of their president who led them on to victories during the decade.
Through the twentieth century but especially after the second world war, one could see the face of Hamrun changing, especially with new building on the outskirts and the transformation of ground floor residences into storefronts on the main road. Even though it was happening all the time in particular cases as we suggested earlier, this process took on an accelerated pace in the last three decades of the 20th century. While in the early stages of growth of Hamrun and up to WWII there used to be only a few bars selling wine, coffee and pastizzi on the main road, nowadays the shops offer all one needs from stationery to household appliances. There seems to be a concentration of furniture shops between Blata l-Bajda and St.Paul square while restaurants abound around the parish church. All over the main road from the square to the church, general merchandise is carried in many a shop window while further to the immediate west of the church, clothes shops seem to be springing up at a fast rate.
One problem that is getting worse in our times partly because of how Hamrun grew, is the lack of parking spaces. Our town which started to take shape and grow in the time of horse drawn carts, was never built for the kind of vehicles we use nowadays let alone their number.
Through the twentieth century but especially after the second world war, one could see the face of Hamrun changing, especially with new building on the outskirts and the transformation of ground floor residences into storefronts on the main road. Even though it was happening all the time in particular cases as we suggested earlier, this process took on an accelerated pace in the last three decades of the 20th century. While in the early stages of growth of Hamrun and up to WWII there used to be only a few bars selling wine, coffee and pastizzi on the main road, nowadays the shops offer all one needs from stationery to household appliances. There seems to be a concentration of furniture shops between Blata l-Bajda and St.Paul square while restaurants abound around the parish church. All over the main road from the square to the church, general merchandise is carried in many a shop window while further to the immediate west of the church, clothes shops seem to be springing up at a fast rate.
One problem that is getting worse in our times partly because of how Hamrun grew, is the lack of parking spaces. Our town which started to take shape and grow in the time of horse drawn carts, was never built for the kind of vehicles we use nowadays let alone their number.
Over the years the authorities strove to improve the streets by demolishing unwanted obstacles and carrying streets like Victoria Avenue through, excavating the Santa Venera tunnels to bypass traffic and refurbished the sidewalks, but the main road always remains congested and parking spaces at a premium even in the side roads. Garages are nearly non existent in the core but nowadays people are trying to find ways to gain more space. Some car rental companies have been excavating below ground level under their premises creating underground lots for their cars. Other individuals have opted for the smaller Smartcar on sale nowadays, taking half the space of a regular car.
At least in the Summer of 2007, with the approval of the local building authority, Hamrun Local Council had the go-ahead to build a much needed 5 level car park alleviating the problem in the centre of the Town. There are plans for free overnight parking when it is ready. It will also have a garden on top of it, with access to Duke of Edimburgh Street.
But it is not just the traffic that is the problem. Of course the streets cannot be widened further, to the detriment of pedestrians. It seems that its strategic position and the innovations in transport which helped Hamrun grow in the beginning, are now becoming the causes for its deterioration!
But it is not just the traffic that is the problem. Of course the streets cannot be widened further, to the detriment of pedestrians. It seems that its strategic position and the innovations in transport which helped Hamrun grow in the beginning, are now becoming the causes for its deterioration!
The maps below show how Hamrun developed through the ages. Please note that Hamrun was still called Casale San Giuseppe or St.Joseph in the 18th and 19th centuries.
#1. 1700's; #2. 1750's; #3. 1844; #4. 1920's; #5. 1930's aerial view; #6. 1940's; #7. 2006 detailed MEPA map.
#1. 1700's; #2. 1750's; #3. 1844; #4. 1920's; #5. 1930's aerial view; #6. 1940's; #7. 2006 detailed MEPA map.
Please click HERE to view some pictures of Hamrun from the 40's and 50's taken by my late brother Anthony. It is interesting to note some of the changes which took place since.
Population information
The following Census, the first one, taken in 1882 by the first Pastor Fr.Valletta street by street, sheds light upon the situation in Hamrun of those days. It was gleaned from old parish archives by Fr.Frans Camilleri and published in one of the Festa booklets. Note the Italian language used those days especially for documentation.
The following Census, the first one, taken in 1882 by the first Pastor Fr.Valletta street by street, sheds light upon the situation in Hamrun of those days. It was gleaned from old parish archives by Fr.Frans Camilleri and published in one of the Festa booklets. Note the Italian language used those days especially for documentation.
This is a list of Streets in Hamrun at present (2008)
Triq is Street in English,
Trejqet a Short Street,
Sqaq is a Lane and
Pjazza or Misrah a Square
Trejqet a Short Street,
Sqaq is a Lane and
Pjazza or Misrah a Square
Right... One of the lanes on the main road in the area of Blata l-Bajda
Triq Karmnu Abela
Triq Alexander
Triq Manwel Attard
Triq Guze' Bajada
Triq Barth
Triq il-Kanonku Bonnici
Triq Eugenio Borg
Triq Brighella
Triq Pawlu Burlo'
Triq Lord Byron
Triq Guze' Maria Camilleri
Triq Indri Cilia
Triq Dun Nerik Cordina Perez
Triq Roger Debattista
Triq Fra Diegu
Triq id-Duluri
Triq id-Duka ta' Edinburgh
Triq Farsons
Triq il-Ferrovija
Triq Gafa'
Sqaq il-Ghajn
Misrah is-Sebgha ta' Gunju 1919
Triq il-Kbira San Guzepp
Triq il-Kuncizzjoni
Triq il-Licew
Triq Patri Magri
Triq Wenzu Mallia
Triq il-Kappillan Mifsud
Triq Mile End
Triq Mountbatten
Triq A.Muscat Azzopardi
Triq Nazzjonali
Triq Fra Gaetano Pace Forno
Triq Dun Gorg Preca
Triq Hal Qormi
Triq Pawlu Saliba
Triq San Frangisk
Sqaq San Gejtanu
Pjazza San Pawl
Trejqet San Pietru
Trejqet Sant' Anna
Sqaq Sant' Antnin
Triq San Tumas
Triq Santu Wistin
Triq Pawlu Xwereb
Triq is-Sewwieqa
Triq is-Sorijiet iz-Zghar tal-Fqar
Triq it-Tramm
Triq Mikiel Anton Vassalli
Triq Villambrosa
Triq il-Vittorja
Triq Zimelli
Triq Alexander
Triq Manwel Attard
Triq Guze' Bajada
Triq Barth
Triq il-Kanonku Bonnici
Triq Eugenio Borg
Triq Brighella
Triq Pawlu Burlo'
Triq Lord Byron
Triq Guze' Maria Camilleri
Triq Indri Cilia
Triq Dun Nerik Cordina Perez
Triq Roger Debattista
Triq Fra Diegu
Triq id-Duluri
Triq id-Duka ta' Edinburgh
Triq Farsons
Triq il-Ferrovija
Triq Gafa'
Sqaq il-Ghajn
Misrah is-Sebgha ta' Gunju 1919
Triq il-Kbira San Guzepp
Triq il-Kuncizzjoni
Triq il-Licew
Triq Patri Magri
Triq Wenzu Mallia
Triq il-Kappillan Mifsud
Triq Mile End
Triq Mountbatten
Triq A.Muscat Azzopardi
Triq Nazzjonali
Triq Fra Gaetano Pace Forno
Triq Dun Gorg Preca
Triq Hal Qormi
Triq Pawlu Saliba
Triq San Frangisk
Sqaq San Gejtanu
Pjazza San Pawl
Trejqet San Pietru
Trejqet Sant' Anna
Sqaq Sant' Antnin
Triq San Tumas
Triq Santu Wistin
Triq Pawlu Xwereb
Triq is-Sewwieqa
Triq is-Sorijiet iz-Zghar tal-Fqar
Triq it-Tramm
Triq Mikiel Anton Vassalli
Triq Villambrosa
Triq il-Vittorja
Triq Zimelli
Triq Joseph Abela Scolaro
Triq Atocia
Triq Willie Attard
Triq Giovanni Barbara
Triq il-Birrerija
Triq Censu Borg
Triq ta' Braxia
Triq Censu Bugeja
Triq Anton Buttigieg
Triq Dun Frans Camilleri
Triq Tommaso Caruana Demajo
Triq Adelaide Cini
Triq Danny Cremona
Triq Monsinjur De Piro
Sqaq id-Duluri #1
Triq Wenzu Dyer
Triq Eldorado
Triq il-Fatati
Sqaq il-Forn
Triq Joe Gasan
Triq l-Ghasafar
Triq Kamelja
Sqaq il-Kubrit
Triq Turu Lentini
Triq Manuel Magri
Triq Maitland
Triq Wenzu Mifsud Bonnici
Triq Miggiani
Triq il-Mimosa
Pjazza Kappillan Muscat
Triq in-Nazzarenu
Triq Nuzzo
Triq Guze' Pace
Sqaq il-Qasab
Triq Qrejten
Triq San Fidiel
Triq San Gejtanu
Triq San Gwann
Sqaq San Pawl
Triq Santa Marija
Triq Sant' Antnin
Sqaq San Tumas
Triq is-Santissima Trinita'
Triq San Vincenz
Triq Joe Sciberras
Triq l-Iskola
Triq l-Ispartani
Triq il-Kappillan Valletta
Triq Dun Edgar Vella
Triq Emmanuele Vitale
Triq Oscar Zammit
Triq Annunzjata (East side - West side being in Sta Venera)
Triq Atocia
Triq Willie Attard
Triq Giovanni Barbara
Triq il-Birrerija
Triq Censu Borg
Triq ta' Braxia
Triq Censu Bugeja
Triq Anton Buttigieg
Triq Dun Frans Camilleri
Triq Tommaso Caruana Demajo
Triq Adelaide Cini
Triq Danny Cremona
Triq Monsinjur De Piro
Sqaq id-Duluri #1
Triq Wenzu Dyer
Triq Eldorado
Triq il-Fatati
Sqaq il-Forn
Triq Joe Gasan
Triq l-Ghasafar
Triq Kamelja
Sqaq il-Kubrit
Triq Turu Lentini
Triq Manuel Magri
Triq Maitland
Triq Wenzu Mifsud Bonnici
Triq Miggiani
Triq il-Mimosa
Pjazza Kappillan Muscat
Triq in-Nazzarenu
Triq Nuzzo
Triq Guze' Pace
Sqaq il-Qasab
Triq Qrejten
Triq San Fidiel
Triq San Gejtanu
Triq San Gwann
Sqaq San Pawl
Triq Santa Marija
Triq Sant' Antnin
Sqaq San Tumas
Triq is-Santissima Trinita'
Triq San Vincenz
Triq Joe Sciberras
Triq l-Iskola
Triq l-Ispartani
Triq il-Kappillan Valletta
Triq Dun Edgar Vella
Triq Emmanuele Vitale
Triq Oscar Zammit
Triq Annunzjata (East side - West side being in Sta Venera)
Population growth and decline.
Year(s)........People.................Circumstances
1850.............------...........Late 1800s saw the building of the dockyard.
1881.............4960...........1881........Parish of St.Cajetan
1890.............6120...........1883........Railway
1895.............8000
1901...........10393...........1905........Tramway
1911...........14601...........1912........Sta Venera Parish takes territory
1921...........12347...........1913........Marsa Parish takes territory
1931...........22086...........1930s.....Buses
1940s.......--------...........W.W.II refugees from Valletta & 3 Cities inflate numbers.
1957...........16895
1961...........21081...........1960s.....Mass Emigration
1967...........14787...........1968........Gwardamangia parish takes territory
1985...........13622
1995...........11195
2003...........11203
2005...........11000
2007...........10188
Year(s)........People.................Circumstances
1850.............------...........Late 1800s saw the building of the dockyard.
1881.............4960...........1881........Parish of St.Cajetan
1890.............6120...........1883........Railway
1895.............8000
1901...........10393...........1905........Tramway
1911...........14601...........1912........Sta Venera Parish takes territory
1921...........12347...........1913........Marsa Parish takes territory
1931...........22086...........1930s.....Buses
1940s.......--------...........W.W.II refugees from Valletta & 3 Cities inflate numbers.
1957...........16895
1961...........21081...........1960s.....Mass Emigration
1967...........14787...........1968........Gwardamangia parish takes territory
1985...........13622
1995...........11195
2003...........11203
2005...........11000
2007...........10188
Millennium Monument
A monument to commemorate the Third Millennium was unveiled at St.Paul's square. It was built in three units at different levels with the plan of Hamrun in the middle. The work was done in marble by the sculptor Ronnie Pisani. On the front of the base of the monument is an inscription in Maltese which says:
The people of Hamrun celebrate the first full centenary of activity and look forward in hope towards the future. Today at the dawn of the Third Millennium 1st January 2000.
A monument to commemorate the Third Millennium was unveiled at St.Paul's square. It was built in three units at different levels with the plan of Hamrun in the middle. The work was done in marble by the sculptor Ronnie Pisani. On the front of the base of the monument is an inscription in Maltese which says:
The people of Hamrun celebrate the first full centenary of activity and look forward in hope towards the future. Today at the dawn of the Third Millennium 1st January 2000.
Back to Hamrun Index
It seems that the strategic hill of Atocia would serve another but more peaceful purpose. Painters liked to climb the hill and be inspired by the view especially looking towards the Capital City of Valletta. We are lucky in this way to have depictions of Hamrun during these years before the photographic process was even invented. Though one can find more artists painting this particular scene, I will include just three popular ones below with the approximate date painted. In each of them one can see the Blacas palace in the middle foreground.
1770s Pullicino
1791 Antoine Roux
1840 Brocktorff
Documents of the first elections held in Malta, show that the part of Hamrun called Casale San Giuseppe or 'village of St.Joseph', was amalgamated with Blata l-Bajda and later on Atocia hill was added, all under the name of Casale San Giuseppe. The Government Gazette was still calling the village Casale San Giuseppe in 15th May 1888 but the electoral register of the 2nd June of the same year started calling it Hamrun once and for all ending the inconsistency of names. It is interesting to check out how the population of Hamrun evolved from the latter part of the 1800s, that is from when it was officially constituted into a village up to our times. There is a reason behind each fluctuation of the numbers but here it is important to mention the motto that Hamrun took from the start, that is Propera Augesco meaning Quickly do I grow. A very fitting phrase which Hamrun honoured because in its first fifty years as a parish, it expanded to about five times the population it started with. Please see lists at the end of this chapter. Indeed, the beginnings of the history of Hamrun are entwined in the building of its Parish Church. Please see section St.Cajetan Parish Church. At this time, about 1878, we find little more than 4 chapels, 2 palaces and about 100 houses on the main and nearly only street.